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NJ Breeder of Chesapeake Bay Retrievers and Labradors

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 Your Dog Needs to Chew

Puppies and young dogs need something with resistance to chew on while their teeth and jaws are developing.  It is important to have something available while they are cutting the puppy teeth, to assist in getting rid of the puppy teeth at the proper time, to help the permanent teeth through the gums, and to assure normal jaw development.  The adult dog's desire to chew stems from the instinct for tooth cleaning effect, gum massage and jaw exercise - plus the need for an outlet for periodic doggie tensions!  Tartar accumulates on the teeth of dogs, particularly at the gum line, more rapidly than on the teeth of humans.  

Most chewing by adult dogs is an effort to do something about this problem for themselves.  It is important that dogs not be permitted to chew on anything they can break or bite large chunks from.  Sharp pieces from a bone may pierce the intestine wall and kill. Pieces of cheap plastic, rubber, or pieces of rawhide chews can clog-up the stomach openings and/or intestines. These should be avoided. Pieces of rawhide chews are actually course leather and can lie in the stomach, undigested for days and/or can get lodged in the intestines.  Large knucklebones are too soft and can be chewed up by large dogs.  They provide very little calcium and upset stomach digestion.  Please avoid these.  Avoid chewing on old shoes.  The dog can't distinguish between good shoes and old ones!

Strong natural bones 2-4 inches in length of round shinbone from mature beef - the kind you get from the butcher - are best. Use these raw bones at 4 months old and after.  Use for puppies from 8-16 weeks of age, but boil the bone first.  After 6 months of age or as an adult, raw chicken bones (wings) can be used in the diet.  These bones are soft and it is proven that these are healthy in for the dog.  

Use Nylabone Products, the heavy-duty ones that can't be chewed up quickly and almost last forever. Some have nubs on them, come in various shapes and some are the "wolf" size.  Always get a large size, never something fitting into the mouth easily.  These Nyla bones will be around a long time, especially after the dog is fully-grown.  They are inexpensive considering how long they last. Kong toys are great for playing as well, and rarely get chewed up if you use the large very hard ones.  Have your dog's teeth cleaned by a veterinarian when needed or do it yourself.  Many pet supply places sell a small utensil that you can use yourself for removing the tartar.  Yes, it's that easy.

Note*** We suggest never giving "raw-hide" bones/treats.  These are long or big pieces of real hide or leather and they do not breakdown in the digestive system.  Many operations have to b preformed to remove these when stuck in the stomach or intestine.

Teething
Around 4 to 5 months of age, puppies will start to get their permanent teeth. There are several things you can do, both to ease the pain and control the chewing.
1.  Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself) ice cubes and give them to the puppy.
2.  Give him regular ice cubes to chew on.
3.  Soften the kibble a bit with water.
4.  Discourage biting on your arm or hand for comfort.

Puppies lose their teeth in a distinct pattern: first the small front teeth come out. Then the premolars just behind the canines. Then the molars in the back come out (and you'll see adult molars behind those erupting as well). Finally the canine teeth come out. Sometimes the adult canines erupt before the baby canines have come all the way out.  During this time, some discomfort, including bleeding gums is to be expected. Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions above). You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy loses, as puppies typically swallow them.

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Jane Pappler  7 Easton Way, Southampton, NJ, 08088  -  609 859-3570

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